Eclipse Chaser Watches Perfect Total Solar Eclipse Over Greenland's Scoresby Sound

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SCORESBY SOUND, Greenland ‪—‬ There's no feeling more exhilarating than waking up inside the imminent path of a total solar eclipse to see a clear blue sky. It was Wednesday, Aug. 12, and after over two years of planning, I was in the farthest reaches of eastern Greenland's beautiful Scoresby Sound (or Scoresbysund) fjord system aboard the Aurora Expeditions cruise ship the Sylvia Earle. We were creeping toward Ukattip Kungersiva, also known as Harefjord, in the icy depths of Ofjord.

Up on the observation deck, I scanned the sky for even a slight cloud. There was not a trace. I addressed the planet directly: "Are you kidding me?!" I smiled with utter joy, as it had been 1,210 days since my last clear view of the sun's corona — an eternity for an avid eclipse chaser like me. Clouds had thwarted my previous eclipse chase in Texas for the 2024 total solar eclipse, which was followed by almost two-and-a-half years without a total solar eclipse.

Today, 117 eclipse chasers on the expedition were depending on the decisions made by a few of us on the ship — the ship's captain, the expedition leader (and noted Arctic adventurer) Greg Mortimer and I. We had taken a risk to position the ship in a glorious location — the confluence of four fjord channels, with icebergs passing below ice-capped mountains — and, it seemed, in good weather ‪—‬ and we were also almost bang on the centerline of the path, where the sun would be blocked by the moon for 2 minutes, 16 seconds. That was just two seconds off the maximum possible totality anywhere on Earth. We were asking Mother Nature for everything on offer, but there were zero guarantees, aside from the moon's dark shadow enveloping us and cutting the light.

The day before, we'd surveyed the aptly named Sol Glacier, a wall of ice on the shores of Scoresby Sund. The sound of thousands of tons of ice calving into the sea will stay with me forever, but I had the prospect of something else even more dramatic on my mind. We had to decide where to put the cruise ship for the total solar eclipse the next day. I looked at the latest cloud forecast and sighed; it showed a blue hole of sky far away on Greenland's Blosseville Coast, back the way we'd come from Iceland. Could we make it in time?

Yes, if we left soon. But watching an eclipse far out at sea could bring its own problems. The swell would make the ship unsteady, and mist and clouds were likely. Our first choice, the centerline of the path of totality down narrow Ofjord, had looked cloudy on forecasts all week, though the chances of clear skies had improved slightly today. I headed to the bridge — the ship’s command center — just as the latest forecast was updated. It was good news.

Totality from the Sylvia Earle cruise ship in Ukattip Kungersiva (Harefjord) in eastern Greenland on Aug. 12, 2026. (Image credit: Jamie Carter) "We're seeing a trend for Ofjord to clear," said Mortimer, who, in addition to being expedition leader, is a mountaineer who's used to shooting for the summit when conditions allowed. To disappear down the channels of Scoresby was a risk; due to narwhals, the speed limit was just 3 knots (about 3.5 mph, or 5.6 km/h) — and there was no escape route. We decided to take the chance.

We were asking Mother Nature for everything on offer, but there were zero guarantees, aside from the moon's dark shadow enveloping us and cutting the light.

Jamie Carter

Being on a cruise ship that could change position paid off in spades. We had hugged the northern side of the fjord to prevent any rising clouds from blocking totality; as it neared, two other cruise ships joined us. The temperature dropped like a stone; three eclipse chasers watching from the ship's open-air hot tubs suddenly appeared to be the most sensible of all.

At precisely 5:33 p.m. on Aug. 12, I watched the sun's bright face finally disappear behind the moon's silhouette as both hung over the reddish rocks of Røde Fjord to the south. The light in Ukattip Kungersiva dissolved as a diamond ring appeared around the moon . As it faded, a luminous reddish-pink prominence — a loop of gas and magnetic fields protruding from the sun's chromosphere — took its place. It was quite possibly the s crispest, clearest and most beautiful totality to witness. The 117 guests stood in reverence throughout as they experienced something unique and impossibly precious.

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Each totality is different, but this Arctic eclipse taught me much for the next one on Aug. 2, 2027. For that event, nicknamed the "eclipse of the century," I'll be on the centerline again ‪—‬ but this time, for 6 minutes, 20 seconds. I will witness it from a river cruise ship in Egypt at noon, with the eclipsed sun at 82 degrees — almost directly overhead. So it will be a literal pain in the neck, but worth it.

Should we lie down on the deck? We'll prop up binoculars with our eye sockets and spend six minutes with an all-sky corona. A few lucky observers will get to float in the on-deck pool. It will be scorching hot, but during totality, it will cool considerably. Repositioning likely won't be necessary, as there will be a less-than-1% chance of clouds.

Totality isn't just something you see; it's a landscape you briefly inhabit. In 2027, that landscape — the dark Nile busy with ships and traffic — will last the longest of any total solar eclipse for another 87 years. This time, there will be no risk but plenty of reward.

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