Baltimore weekend getaway: art, food and a billion-dollar Inner Harbor transformation

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Of all the major cities along the East Coast, Baltimore's compact size makes it one of the easiest to navigate in one weekend. But just because it is smaller than most of its neighbors doesn't mean this Maryland metropolis is lacking in things to do during your next weekend getaway.

In addition to its Inner Harbor undergoing a billion-dollar transformation, Baltimore has a vibrant art scene that stretches well beyond downtown and restaurants that will impress even the most discerning food lovers. (And there's so much more to eat here than just crab.)

I recently spent a weekend exploring Charm City's cultural and culinary delights. Here are the highlights of how I spent 48 hours in Baltimore, along with a few tips to maximize your points and miles.

How to get to Baltimore

Along the Northeast's I-95 corridor, Baltimore is roughly an hour's drive northeast of Washington, D.C. and just over two hours southwest of Philadelphia.

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Inside the waiting area at Baltimore's Penn Station. LYNDSEY MATTHEWS/THE POINTS GUY As a car-free New Yorker, I took a three-hour Amtrak train ride to get to Baltimore's Penn Station from New York's Moynihan Train Hall. If you want to maximize your time during your weekend getaway, faster Acela trains can get you to Washington, D.C., in a little over two hours from New York City.

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With Amtrak, you'll save the most by booking well in advance. I paid about $230 for round-trip coach fares booked about a week out, but fares can be as low as $70 round-trip if you book a few months ahead.

For those coming from farther away, Baltimore/Washington International Thurgood Marshall Airport (BWI) sits approximately 10 miles south of downtown Baltimore. Most domestic airlines offer nonstop flights from major hubs.

Where to stay in Baltimore

Hotel Ulysses

After arriving around 2 p.m. on a Friday, I hopped in a quick five-minute Uber from Baltimore's Penn Station to Hotel Ulysses , a 116-room property in the elegant Mount Vernon neighborhood. The maximalist decor in its rooms nods to Baltimore filmmaker John Waters' high camp style: think leopard-print carpet, brass door knockers and carved bedside tables shaped like flamingos.

The entrance to Hotel Ulysses. LYNDSEY MATTHEWS/THE POINTS GUY Though the quirky decor makes it feel like a boutique hotel, points and miles enthusiasts will be happy to hear that it's a member of Marriott Bonvoy's Design Hotels collection. (However, rates are often so affordable that it typically makes more sense to book with cash.) Hotel Ulysses is also bookable through several credit card collections, including Capital One's Lifestyle Collection , which offers perks to select Capital One cardholders, which offers a $50 experience credit to use during your stay, as well as room upgrades, early check-in and late checkout when available.

Ash—Bar at Hotel Ulysses is an all-day cafe and bar. LYNDSEY MATTHEWS/THE POINTS GUY Put that credit toward a meal or drink at one of Hotel Ulysses' standout bars and restaurants. I enjoyed a Negroni ($10) during aperitivo happy hour at the burl wood-encased Ash—Bar and a late-night Scotch and pineapple liqueur concoction ($20) at the disco-inspired cocktail lounge Bloom's . Don't miss the Spanish tapas at Bar Dali , which James Beard Award–winning chef Spike Gjerde opened earlier in 2026. Order the French onion croquetas ($9), even if it's still 85 degrees outside.

Room rates at Hotel Ulysses start at $125 or 37,000 Marriott Bonvoy points per night.

Pendry Baltimore

The pool at the Pendry Baltimore overlooking Baltimore Harbor. LYNDSEY MATTHEWS/THE POINTS GUY For something even splashier (literally), check into the Pendry Baltimore in the repurposed 1914 Recreation Pier building overlooking the harbor in Fells Point. Many of its 127 rooms and suites, decorated with subtle nods to its nautical origins, offer direct water views. But if that's not enough, spend an afternoon at its zero-entry pool at the very end of the pier.

Though Pendry is an independent hotel brand without a loyalty program, it's bookable through several major credit card hotel programs, including Capital One's Premier Collection . Select Capital One cardholders can receive perks like a $100 experience credit that can be used at its posh chop house, daily breakfast for two, as well as early check-in, late checkout and a room upgrade when available.

Room rates at Pendry Baltimore start at $420 per night.

Where to eat and drink in Baltimore

Baltimore is known for its crabcakes and classic American fare at places like Woodberry Kitchen , where Gjerde won his James Beard Award in 2015. For a short weekend trip, I focused on hitting some of the newer and buzzier spots that have popped up across the city since I last visited about 15 years ago. Here's where I ate outside of my hotels.

Cafe Dear Leon

The crab dip bagel and a strawberry danish at Cafe Dear Leon. LYNDSEY MATTHEWS/THE POINTS GUY Cafe Dear Leon rewards early risers with delicious pastries made with French techniques at two locations in Baltimore. The original is in Canton, but I visited its second location, which opened in Remington in 2025. While I did have to wait about 15 minutes in a line that snaked out the door, I was able to get my hands on the viral crab dip bagel ($11.50) stuffed with Cajun butter, Old Bay, corn and cheddar cheese, and a flaky seasonal danish ($8) filled with lavender mascarpone cream and strawberry compote.

Pink Flamingo

Upscale bar fare at the Pink Flamingo. LYNDSEY MATTHEWS/THE POINTS GUY A semifinalist in the 2026 James Beard Awards for best new bar, Pink Flamingo is a casual neighborhood tavern in Remington with tropical tiki flair. Named after the 1972 John Waters comedy, this bar is open for dinner seven nights a week and for brunch on the weekends. For a late-afternoon snack, I ordered fish and shrimp ceviche with prawn chips ($18) and a refreshing Pura Vida cocktail ($13) made with Tedorigawa Junmai sake, Kota Pandan liqueur and yuzu-basil limeade.

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The Wren

Zucchini salad at the Wren. LYNDSEY MATTHEWS/THE POINTS GUY A cozy Irish pub in Fells Point, The Wren gathered many accolades after opening in early 2025, including being named to The New York Times and Bon Appétit's best restaurants lists that year. As a solo traveler, I was able to grab one of its first-come, first-served bar stools on a Saturday night, but if you want to dine in the back lounge, it's best to make a reservation. The seasonal menu changes frequently and centers on hearty carnivorous fare, but I kept things veg-forward during my visit with a zucchini and goat cheese salad ($18), some bread and butter ($6) and a Guinness espresso martini ($14).

Marta

In Upper Fells Point, Marta is an upscale Italian joint that incorporates local Maryland seafood into its dishes. For example, its version of oyster sgroppino ($20 for four) is made with Chesapeake white stone oysters, limoncello sorbet and prosecco granita, while the spaghetti alla chitarra carbonara ($32) is served with blue crab, guanciale, miso egg yolk and shaved pecorino. I also enjoyed the Campanelle Zafferano pasta ($36) served with poached lobster, cherry tomato, melted leeks and white wine.

Mama Koko's

Upstairs from Mama Koko's cafe and cocktail lounge are a collection of art studios and retail shops. LYNDSEY MATTHEWS/THE POINTS GUY A coffee shop by day and cocktail lounge by night, Mama Koko's is on the first floor of the historic James E. Hooper House. Menu highlights include wings ($13) with creative sauce flavors like mango habanero and honey Old Bay, and a variety of draft cocktails on tap. Try the Mighty Roots ($14), a mix of tequila, grilled nectarine, green peppercorn and oolong tea. Upstairs, you'll find art studios, galleries and other small businesses you can wander before or after dining.

Things to do in Baltimore

Depending on the season, sports fans can attend a Baltimore Orioles baseball game or a Baltimore Ravens football game. But as someone who prefers wandering art galleries and bookshops during my travels, here are some of the places I explored during my weekend.

Go museum hopping

The Baltimore Museum of Art. LYNDSEY MATTHEWS/THE POINTS GUY There's no shortage of museums to explore in Baltimore, whether your tastes are classic or contemporary.

Baltimore Museum of Art : General admission is free at this art institution adjacent to Johns Hopkins University's campus. Known for its collection of more than 1,600 works by Henri Matisse, the BMA also has a large collection of African and American art.

American Visionary Art Museum : AVAM opened in 1995 in a mosaic-covered building just south of the Inner Harbor to celebrate the works of self-taught artists in an innovative and quirky space. Highlights include select kinetic sculptures that have competed in Baltimore's annual race of human-powered, amphibious works of art through Baltimore each May. Adult admission is $20.

The Walters Art Museum : Set across five historic buildings in Mount Vernon, this institution began when Henry Walters bequeathed his father's art collection and family home to the city of Baltimore. The museum is free to visit and features a large collection of medieval, Asian and Latin art.

George Peabody Library : A block from the Walters Art Museum, this 1878 library is considered one of the most beautiful in the world, with six levels of stacks surrounded by cast-iron balconies. Now a part of Johns Hopkins University, the library is free and open to the public, though access is limited to the ground floor.

Make a splash at the revitalized Inner Harbor

There are two Baltimore Blueway kayak launches (Inner Harbor and Fells Point) that have Rent.Fun kayak rental kiosks. LYNDSEY MATTHEWS/THE POINTS GUY Baltimore's waterfront is in the midst of a renaissance from the Inner Harbor to Fells Point. Though the revitalization efforts are ongoing, highlights include turning former industrial sites into green space and playgrounds at Rash Field Park . Thanks to extensive water cleanup work, in part by an anthropomorphized trash interceptor dubbed Mr. Trash Wheel , it's possible to take to the water in rental kayaks and stand-up paddleboards across 20 miles of Baltimore Blueway 's eight water trails along the shoreline.

Go shopping along Hampden's West 36th Street

LYNDSEY MATTHEWS/THE POINTS GUY Dozens of vintage shops, kitschy bookstores and boutiques line the main avenue — West 36th Street — of this northern Baltimore neighborhood. Set aside a few hours one afternoon to browse the prints at Craig Flinner Gallery , vintage sports gear at Balto Vintage and occult ephemera and taxidermy at Bazaar . At the far end of the street, you'll find Atomic Books , the independent bookstore where John Waters receives fan mail. Record collectors shouldn't miss Celebrated Summer Records .

Bottom line

The water taxi landing in Fells Point near the Pendry Hotel. LYNDSEY MATTHEWS/THE POINTS GUY If you're in the mood for an art-filled city getaway with delicious food and waterfront views, bump Baltimore to the top of your travel wishlist for your next weekend escape. There's plenty to do in Maryland's largest city, but it's not so big that you can't pack it all in just 48 hours.

Related reading:

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How to plan an epic, affordable weekend getaway with points and miles

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The best weekend getaways for every type of traveler

Editorial disclaimer: Opinions expressed here are the author’s alone, not those of any bank, credit card issuer, airline or hotel chain, and have not been reviewed, approved or otherwise endorsed by any of these entities.